Japan
Japan is an ancient place, with the earliest evidence of habitation dating to about 40,000 years ago, and you can sense this in the traditions that are deeply etched in this culture. Throughout the ages, the Japanese people have oscillated between hosting open shores that welcomed foreign innovations, to a completely closed and insular society. Thus was created a unique and homogeneous culture, but reflecting influences from regional neighbors and occupiers.
Background
Japan is an island chain with a unique and homogeneous culture that is a mixture of deep local tradition and adopted features and influences from abroad (including across the sea to China). The Japanese written language is a good example of this melting pot, consisting of three different character types - a blend of imported and homegrown.
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The archipelago consists of 4 major islands with thousands of smaller ones interspersed. Perched on the western edge of the “pacific ring of fire,” the island chain was created by volcanism and is still active, on land and in the sea. The highly venerated sacred Mt. Fuji, which is actually not one but three volcanoes, was most recently active in 1708 and the island chain is riddled with hydrothermal resources. The Fukushima nuclear disaster of 2011 was caused by an off-shore earthquake and resulting tsunami - common occurrences along the ring of fire.
Three quarters of the country is mountainous and forested, with most people living along the flatter eastern coasts with some very dense cities. Real estate lots in the cities are narrow and the structures can sometimes look more like columns than buildings.
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Japan is a first world country, and a leader in science and technology. But get outside Tokyo and the other major cities and the ancient traditions shine through everyday life. Religion holds a prominent place in the physical lay of the land and in peoples homes and hearts. Shinto is a native, ancient practice and local Buddhism is an imported but distinctly Japanese religion. As a Japanese friend put it, Buddhism is about celebrating life and Shinto is about celebrating death.
How to book:
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I have been to Japan twice in the past 15 years and both times booked my entire trip online. Japan is very friendly, safe, and technologically up to date and you will find it easy to locate and book inns and travel. You could book with a tour company but then you are stuck visiting only the places that most tourists frequent. Do not let the language barrier dissuade you from adventuring out on your own!
Seasonal differences:
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Japan is a four seasons country, with each season displaying loveliness to recommend it.
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The winter is cold on most of the islands, and in the north there are popular ski areas. Fuji san is covered in snow by the end of the autumn and is closed until the snow melts in the spring. From April through September it is covered with pilgrims making the trek to the top.
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Spring is when the famous cherry blossoms do their thing. This is an extravagant occurrence that attracts people from all over the world and is cherished by the Japanese people. The various species are cultivated according to blooming weeks, so that a garden will have blooms for 2 or 3 months.
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The summer gets quite hot and the humidity can make day time touring unpleasant, but everything is green and the days are long.
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Autumn can still be hot. We were there in mid-October and wore shorts and sleeveless tops. Late autumn is when certain trees, like the Japanese maple, turn blazing red and purple.This amazing color sets a decorative foreground for shrines, mountains, and gardens.
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Currency:​
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The Japanese currency is the Yen. Currently 100 Yen is equivalent to about two thirds of a US dollar.
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You can use credit for transactions within the cities. We got our Yen from ATMs, but showing up off the plane with some cash can be done at the airport.
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It is advisable to have the local currency with you when you go outside the major cities, to towns and villages. You will also want some change in your pocket for the vending machines which are ubiquitous - we had many a morning coffee and tea, warm right out of the machine!
Language:
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The Japanese language consists of three different character types. These characters are syllabaries (each character representing a syllable sound), as opposed to individual sounds, as in English, or representing whole words, as in Chinese.
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Kanji is borrowed from Chinese characters, Hiragana is strictly a Japanese invention, and Katakana is a set of characters used to express foreign language words.
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All three sets can be found in most written sentences making language interpretation quite difficult. We practiced Hiragana and Katakana for months before our last trip there, thinking it would be helpful to read signs and know which train to get on, but were completely blindsided by the Kanji characters inserted, seemingly willy-nilly.
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Many people speak English in the cities but in the towns and hamlets a translation app is critical for communicating, especially one that allows use of the camera to decode written messages and signs.
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If you are interested in languages, it is helpful to try to learn the characters with flash cards, and the sounds with a language app such as Duolingo.
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Transportation:​
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Japan has one of the most enviable transit systems in the world. The trains and buses run with the precision of a Swiss watch. If you get hold of a timetable, you can tell where you are by what time the train is stopping.
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Most trains are local and travel at regular rail speeds, but the Shinkansen trains (bullet trains) link the major cities along the coast and go lightning fast! It is fun to ride them, but you need to reserve a seat in advance. You are not allowed on the Shinkansen without a reservation. Reservations can be made through ticket machines at any train station. There is the English option and if you take your time to read the instructions, these are easy to use.
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We bought a rail pass in advance on the internet for the two weeks we were there. There is no limit to the number of times you can board a train and Shinkansen is included. Some local trains and subways do not honor the pass and you will need to purchase a Suica card for those. It can be recharged at any train station and is also good for some buses that travel to tourist spots.
Lodging:
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Hotels fill up at the more popular times and locations, so you should try to book 6 months in advance in order to acquire the type of lodging you are comfortable with.
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Ryokan is the traditional Japanese hotel, with rooms covered in tatami mats. At these types of lodging your bed is a futon that is rolled up and stored in the closet during the day. It is customary to sit on the floor for the usual sitting purposes, such as reading and eating, although hotels that cater to non-Japanese clients will have tables and chairs at the regular height available. The Ryokan is an experience you need to try in order to appreciate the Japanese way of life. Visitors with old bones might want to ask for an additional futon for padding. The traditional pillow is a small sac filled with barley seeds. This is not comfortable to westerners. We brought our own pillows in our suitcases for our delicate heads.
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Hotels with western accommodations are available, of course, although we did not stay in any of them, preferring instead a more authentic experience.
To help you make decisions about your trip
Recommendations
Features
The culture and landscapes of Japan have many facets. There is beauty everywhere, and presentation is of great concern to the Japanese people - the package is as important as the contents. We absorbed a lot of destinations and beautiful scenes in our travels, but there is much that we did not experience.
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Click the buttons to see descriptions and photos of the beauty we captured with our cameras.
Gardens
Presentation is the way to instill beauty in everyday experiences, and Japanese gardens are renowned as the pinnacle of curated landscape excellence. When you visit a garden in this country, you will find photogenic opportunities everywhere your eyes land. The arrangement of shapes, colors, and textures is stunning, even in simple small places. What we know as zen gardens, raked sand with focal points, are particularly interesting and worth meditating upon. Bonsai is beauty captured in a small package
Especially in the larger cities, it is important to book early if you want to make sure you are getting the accommodations that fits your comfort requirements. Although booking early allowed us our pick of hotels in the larger cities, we opted for a more authentic experience with Ryokan. You can search for them by that word on maps and make sure to visit the website to see what you are getting.
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The Ryokan experience may take getting used to for some westerners, because you will be sleeping on a futon on the tatami mat floor, but the rooms are designed to inspire a peacefulness that contributes to a well-rested night. Tatami mats are made from woven reeds edged with fabric and come in a specific size. The room size is measured by how many mats fit in it!
Our favorite ryokan was a lovely little place (Ryokan Okaya) in an out of the way town on the Tokaido Road (Okitsu) that included two meals and onsen with the price of the room.
Lodging
Geothermal and Onsen
The population of these islands have been soaking in hot water coming out of the ground since time beyond memory. There are wild hot springs in the mountains, and developed destinations with associated amenities, like luxurious changing rooms and sumptuous meals served in private dining rooms.
Soaking is so ingrained in the culture that bathing is a ritual with several important steps. Most Ryokan will have an onsen (bathing area, or what we would casually call hot tubs) included in the experience of the Inn. Visitors will be required to sign up for a time slot in some that are small and private.
Others are communal and open during certain hours of the day. All of these onsen are accessed through a washing area where users soap and scrub their entire body before slipping down luxuriously into the steamy pool of relaxation (naked by the way, so if you are anxious about your body image consider it a cultural experiment. I lost a breast to cancer and guess what - nobody cares)
Beppu is a geothermal destination.
Beppu City, Oita Prefecture
Shrines and Temples
Although the Japanese do not display "religiosity" the way that western Catholics and Tibetan Buddhists do, visits to the shrines and temples are an every day part of life. During the Meiji period (19th century), the monarchy forced a separation of these two different schools of religion, and the purposes and practices, as well as the physical form of the architecture, are apparently different.
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Adapted from mainland Asia in the 6th century, Buddhism evolved in Japan to become several different sects. About two thirds of Japanese people consider themselves Buddhists. A visit to a Buddhist temple includes lighting of incense and devotional gestures to the Buddha (and whatever else devotees do inside their heads). The architecture and interior decoration are magnificent, even at the smaller enclaves. It is a celebration of life and love of life.
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Shinto is a belief system linked to nature, and spirits that inhabit all things. A visit to a Shinto shrine involves the practice of ritual behavior. The shrine complex is entered through a Tori gate, one of the most iconic images that westerns may have in mind when imagining Japan. Tori has a curved horizontal piece atop two vertical support posts. Once inside the complex, there are often several structures serving various purposes as well as gardens. One must wash hands and rinse out mouth before entering the main shrine. Also before entering, a visitor can purchase an amulet or paper scrap to affix to lines or boards in order to say prayers for family members that are deceased or in need of healing thoughts.
Buddhist Temples
Shinto Shrines
Shukubo
(stay at monastery)
Shukubo are monasteries that take in "pilgrims" and other paying guests who want to experience the calm and beauty of the monastic lifestyle.
Historically, monks traveling great distances would stop and stay in such places. More recently, there are a number of visitors who like to stay at different temples to experience the various styles of shukubo. For a price, of course. The daily activities in a monastery are focused on service and prayer, and the pace is slowwww, releasing the troubles and stress that inhabit our minds every day. You get a sense of tranquility living like a Buddhist monk, even if it is only for a day or two.​​
There is a whole mountain top monastic community on Mount Koyasan with dozens of shukubo to choose from. Book early. When I first visited Koyasan in 2009, it was a relatively undiscovered treasure. Upon revisiting in 2023 we realized that it has been "found" and the town is filled with tourists.
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There are a range of accommodations for the masses of visitors, from hotel-like to authentic monastery, to suit all sorts of guests' requirements. We attended a Meditation Session at one of the hotels (for a price), but chanting with the monks early in the morning is free (and required)​.
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Koyasan town includes many temples and shrines and an impressive cemetery that contains hundreds of interesting and moss covered memorials
Parks and Museums
Nara Park: Many of Japan's historic treasures are preserved in parks and museums. Places such as Nara, which was the capital of Japan in the 8th century and is a trove of spectacular shrines and monasteries, is now a park where visitors can stroll through gardens, browse the ancient buildings, and take Insta pics with herds of tame, adorable deer which will eat treats out of your hand.
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Museums: We visited the Origami Museum in Tokyo for a fun distraction, and the Yamaha Museum in Hamamatsu which was a mind-blowing collection of historic and contemporary inventions and musical artifacts.
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Takayama: The old town area of the mountain city of Takayama in Gifu prefecture is a museum in that it boasts a huge collection of extant, mostly unblemished fuedal era traditional architecture. You can visit the old town and folk village, temples, and a castle (by the way, there are several dozen original and reconstructed castles scattered throughout Japan and worth visiting).​​​​
Fuji: The area north of Fuji is a tourist's dream, nestled among lakes, villages, parks, and other attractions. There are sightseeing buses that run all day and stop at all the destinations, such as the ropeway that carries you up a hillside for an unfettered view of the sacred peak (if there are no clouds obscuring it), an authentic old town village, animal parks and gardens, boat rides, hikes, and camping. ​
Kyoto: It almost goes without saying that a visit to Kyoto is necessary when you visit Japan. In addition to the dazzling array of temples, shrines, and the fabulous Imperial palace (Kyoto was the seat of power for 11 centuries until 1869) which is studded with gardens, architecture, and museums, you will find the Bamboo Forest. This is such a popular spot, and thrilling to behold the towering bamboo poles, that you sometimes can't see the forest for the people, so don't go in the middle of the day!
Food
Aside from landscape design, nothing exemplifies the Japanese talent for presentation like prepared food. Even the smallest morsel is wrapped, or nested in a basket or gorgeous ceramic bowl. Meals are usually a combination of small delicacies laid on the table in decorative containers on a beautiful enameled tray. ​
If you eat meals at a hotel or Ryokan, you will be served in this way. Of course, there is the fast food joints which are worth missing. The sushi bars are fun - you can order at your table with an electronic tablet and the dishes are sent to you on a conveyor belt and deposited right to your table, automatically (don't worry - nobody can lick them and put them back on the conveyor belt, as some rumors have it). ​It is safe and fun to try treats from the street vendors, or just to watch them perform feats of food prep.
Architectural Details
The Japanese style of architecture is clean and geometric. Long appreciated for its simple, proportional beauty, it has been idealized and borrowed by modern architects for decades - including Frank Lloyd Wright.
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​The medieval architecture has ornate details in small and significant places. Upon close inspection even the roof tiles show decorative attention.
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Recommendations Section
Japan rail pass - JRPass.com
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Features Section
Stay at monastery - Shukubo
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